T-lok "S" spring bigger than original

[460Stanger]

"S" SPRING QUESTION: I just bought and installed this 8.8 t lok rear end (used)to replace the 7.5 on my 95 mustang. I discovered the clutch plates were worn out and slipping on my first drive after installing it. I ordered new carbon fiber plates and installed them today. NOW I CAN'T GET THE "S" CLIP INSTALLED: The clip that came with the clutches has an over-all spring height approx. a quarter of an inch greater than the one I took out (it is stamped "F3"). I have a hard time imagining it's the right one or that I could even get it in there, The guy who sold me the rear end said it was out of a 96 cobra . . . then he told me it was out of a 95 cobra. I don't know if it makes any difference, but the kit I ordered was for a 96 Cobra (could it be this larger spring is for a 96 cobra and the rear end is actually a 95 and takes a smaller spring (like the one I removed)? Should I just re-install the S spring I took out? Learning the hard way, but it's fun (usually)

Thank you gentlemen for the replies on the c clip thing, and the o-ring.
You guys were right on the money, the abs sensors were still in . . . I suppose they're broke now, but the vehicle doesn't have abs anyway.

[Chrm97PI]

no, they are just a pita to get in, there shouldnt be any difference between a 88 out of a 95 and 96, and 88 is a 88 so it should matter, just dont break it...

[PHRANQUY]

The reason the spring is bigger is because it hasn't been compressed for years like the one you took out. I would suggest getting the proper tool if it's being that much of a PITA.

[460Stanger]

The right tool?

Thanks for the reply.

Any ideas on where I might find the proper tool to install it?

Runnin' on MT

[Chrm97PI]

ive never heard of a propper tool to install a s spring

[460Stanger]

Ok, I'll try again tomorrow.

I love to learn by "doing", but I tend to break things along the way

I'll "gitter dun".

Thanks.

Runnin' on MT

[Chrm97PI]

just dont break it

[ScotWithOne_t]

Use a big channel lock pliers and compress it a little, then hit it with a 3 or 4 pound sledge hammer. That's how I got mine back when I rebuilt my diff.

[Chrm97PI]

Use a big channel lock pliers and compress it a little, then hit it with a 3 or 4 pound sledge hammer. That's how I got mine back when I rebuilt my diff.

except when using that big of hammer there is a good chance of breaking it

[MisterCMK]

When I rebuilt the t-lok on my car I used a needlenose pliers to hold the spring up to the carrier and then a good solid hit with a deadblow hammer and it went in. I had tried compressing it and whatnot but I was over-thinking it. The hammer worked great.

[allstock93gt]

I like to line them up and hold them in place with a 2x4 and then hit that with dead blow hammer.

[LES]

I like to line them up and hold them in place with a 2x4 and then hit that with dead blow hammer.

[Gear Slammer]

Just did one of these for my neighbor a couple weeks back. When I rebuilt my limited slip it was simple, big rubber dead blow and two swings later it was in place. However the new S spring that came with my neighbors Carbons is a different animal. We had to resort to the 2x4 and a 5 lbs sledge hammer with a 4 foot handle. I kneeled on the 2x4 to hold it in place and he swung at it like chopping firewood And yes I still have all limbs and appendages attached

[PHRANQUY]

ive never heard of a propper tool to install a s spring

Needle nose and small hammer works...

Don't those s-springs have the little holes in them like C-clips do? I coulda sworn they did, but maybe not.

[ScotWithOne_t]

except when using that big of hammer there is a good chance of breaking it

Do you have experience breaking them? Pretty much everyone is saying to just pound it in. It's a pretty damn tough peice of steel, so I don't see it breaking from a few smacks with a hammer.