Driveshaft removal troubles

[robl110]

Trying to do a new FW and clutch disc but I am not off to a good start. I have been messing around trying to get the driveshaft off for half a day. So far I have tried map gas torch, northern tools cheapo electric impact, beating on wrenches with a hammer and lots of PB blaster. I can't get a single one to budge. I don't have the car real high off the ground so leverage is kind of tough. I have been using a 3/8 12pt 12mm regular socket which I know is a bad idea but it's all I got and no local stores have an impact one for sale. Any ideas? Anyone have a 12pt 12mm impact socket in the St Paul area that I could borrow?
Thanks, Rob

[thebigT]

Trying to do a new FW and clutch disc but I am not off to a good start. I have been messing around trying to get the driveshaft off for half a day. So far I have tried map gas torch, northern tools cheapo electric impact, beating on wrenches with a hammer and lots of PB blaster. I can't get a single one to budge. I don't have the car real high off the ground so leverage is kind of tough. I have been using a 3/8 12pt 12mm regular socket which I know is a bad idea but it's all I got and no local stores have an impact one for sale. Any ideas? Anyone have a 12pt 12mm impact socket in the St Paul area that I could borrow?
Thanks, Rob

You could drive the car to my house and I would help you, buy I live 2 hours away. I bet someone use loctite on them because of a drive shaft vibration was loosening the bolts, I would try to heat them up with a blue bottle torch but do not get the yoke flange to hot or you will be putting a new seal on the yoke. I use two wrenches hooked together but be careful when they spring apart it sucks. Use a 12mm and a 13mm, put the 12mm box end on the bolt then the box end of the 13mm in the open end of the 12mm it should be 12-13” long hope this helps. Ps the heat will deactivate the loctite.

[Turbohwagon]

Many cars come from the factory with thread locker on the driveshaft bolts, And stick with the MAPP gas, it is hotter than the blue propane bottles. Your seal should be just fine, if not it's another 15 minutes (Driveway time) to swap it.

Hooking 2 wrenchs togeather with heat should get the bolts out.

[RNSF]

You could drive the car to my house and I would help you, buy I live 2 hours away. I bet someone use loctite on them because of a drive shaft vibration was loosening the bolts, I would try to heat them up with a blue bottle torch but do not get the yoke flange to hot or you will be putting a new seal on the yoke. I use two wrenches hooked together but be careful when they spring apart it sucks. Use a 12mm and a 13mm, put the 12mm box end on the bolt then the box end of the 13mm in the open end of the 12mm it should be 12-13” long hope this helps. Ps the heat will deactivate the loctite.

This, ratchet with a buddy bar or a 2# hammer. Heat (only the bolts), a good wrench and a few careful whacks usually does the job. dont be too afraid of it

[thebigT]

If he does wreck the seal he doesn’t have an impact gun or tools to get the pinion nut off. And you should use a new crush sleeve and a new nut they are one time use, I just use loctite, if you heat the bolt the bolt will expand, the whole point of using heat is to expand the flange away for the bolt breaking loose the loctite not expanding the bolt?

[Turbohwagon]

If he does wreck the seal he doesn’t have an impact gun or tools to get the pinion nut off. And you should use a new crush sleeve and a new nut they are one time use, I just use loctite, if you heat the bolt the bolt will expand, the whole point of using heat is to expand the flange away for the bolt breaking loose the loctite not expanding the bolt?

I've reused dozens of crush sleeves and nuts, on a multitude of different makes and models with no issue.

More relevant to the topic; heating the bolt/flange should actually soften the thread locker, which is what is giving him such a hard time. Unless the seal sees direct flame, it should be fine.

[robl110]

Thanks for all the replies. I just picked up a 1/2" drive 12pt 12mm socket at Menards to try with the impact gun. Its still not an impact safe socket but at least this one is 1/2" drive. I will continue to give it heat, impact and try 2 wrenches locked together. Honestly if the exhaust wasn't already off I would have taken it to a transmission shop and had them bust them loose then retighten to drive home.

[Turbohwagon]

I doubt the cheap electric impact will get it off, your best bet is to do the wrench trick.

[robl110]

I doubt the cheap electric impact will get it off, your best bet is to do the wrench trick.

Yeah, I tried the impact on a lug nut just for fun and it barley got it off. With the new socket I can get my 2' breaker bar in position so I will try it and wrenches.

[RNSF]

I've reused dozens of crush sleeves and nuts, on a multitude of different makes and models with no issue.

More relevant to the topic; heating the bolt/flange should actually soften the thread locker, which is what is giving him such a hard time. Unless the seal sees direct flame, it should be fine.

I was gonna say, just put 373s in with a used crush sleeve an it fits mint.

[thebigT]

I've reused dozens of crush sleeves and nuts, on a multitude of different makes and models with no issue.

More relevant to the topic; heating the bolt/flange should actually soften the thread locker, which is what is giving him such a hard time. Unless the seal sees direct flame, it should be fine.

"And you should use a new crush sleeve and a new nut they are one time use, I just use loctite" me too that is why i use words like "should"

[TRDon]

Ummmmm..........Lefty loosey?

Seriously, I have always had lick with a quality 12 pt wrench and either a cheater (or linked wrench) or a metal hammer on the wrench.

[xjfish]

Ummmmm..........Lefty loosey?

Seriously, I have always had lick with a quality 12 pt wrench and either a cheater (or linked wrench) or a metal hammer on the wrench.

x2 when all of my 12pt 12mil sockets disappear. Hammer on the wrench. Just put a transmission in a 4x4 Dakota, every single drive-shaft and transfer case bolt had factory loctite on the threads and had to be heated with a torch prior to removing. 8mm front driveshaft bolts were a bit of a PITA.

Borrow a decent 1/2" impact from a friend?

[bluchev]

. get the right tools for the job.

1/2 in impact with a 12 point 12mm swivel socket it will either come out or break.

[Turbohwagon]

"And you should use a new crush sleeve and a new nut they are one time use, I just use loctite" me too that is why i use words like "should"

I wouldn't even consider it, unless its getting overhauled.