Oil consumption update...

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  • TurboX2
    friend of the machines
    • Jan 2003
    • 3245

    Oil consumption update...

    For those who were looking/helping my other thread was long enough I'm starting a new one to update...

    Originally when I did a compression test I had one hole I thought was a little low, 152 vs 162-172 for the others. I redid a couple cylinders yesterday and that one came out at 158, so its right there with the others, its possible I didn't spin the motor over enough times the first time.

    So, my problem is most likely valve guides? Any other possibilities or ways to prove it?

    I'm hoping its the heads so I can just get them fixed and add some Hitech cams....
    Dan Simons
    '11 5.0, 400a, 3.73s, HIDs, ARH 1-7/8" longtubes, Forgestar CF5v 19x9/10, MPSS 275/295, GT500 axle-back, Steeda springs, AirRaid CAI, BBK 85mm, AED tune
  • mike@drh
    TCS n00b
    • Jun 2008
    • 13

    #2
    Probably not valve guides. Smoke from valve guides is usually only noticable at start up.

    In the unlikly event that it is a bad valve guide the heads will need to come off anyway. With the heads off you will be able to look at the bore finish also. Bore finish is probably the cause, but thats only a guess.

    Nobody on this forum can tell you from where we are sitting whats wrong with your engine. So why not get going and pull the heads?
    NOS bottles filled $3.50 per lb

    www.pistondealer.com

    DRH Specialty Co
    Complete Engine Machine Shop
    Building Performance Engines for Over 30 Years

    Comment

    • theduckylittle
      Duck uber Alles
      • Jan 2003
      • 5435

      #3
      Be nice... TurboX2 is one of the few people here who actually know something... he's just looking for someone with similar problems.

      My money would be on the valve guides... as it seems to be the cause of burning oil on every other modular engine I've ever seen... but it's only a rough estimate as I haven't sorted through the other thread.
      1992 Mazda MX3: L3 100 BigYmp.

      Comment

      • TurboX2
        friend of the machines
        • Jan 2003
        • 3245

        #4
        Originally posted by mike@drh View Post
        Nobody on this forum can tell you from where we are sitting whats wrong with your engine. So why not get going and pull the heads?
        Obviously it can't be diagnosed over the internet, but people can provide advice and their own experiences to help determine a course of action.... For me I've been waging a personal war over whether to fix this engine or swap in a 5.4 3v, and the answer to that question is tied directly to whats wrong with this one and what it would take to fix it...

        I'm looking for advice along the lines of "its impossible to tell without tearing it down" or "take it to a dealer to scope the bores" or "a leakdown will determine that"..... I haven't had an engine burning oil before, I have plenty of experience just not in this area.... Can it have good compression and still be the rings? If I take it somewhere will I get a definitive answer?


        edit: btw it does blow mainly at startup, but if I watch the tailpipe while revving the engine its also visible....
        Dan Simons
        '11 5.0, 400a, 3.73s, HIDs, ARH 1-7/8" longtubes, Forgestar CF5v 19x9/10, MPSS 275/295, GT500 axle-back, Steeda springs, AirRaid CAI, BBK 85mm, AED tune

        Comment

        • mike@drh
          TCS n00b
          • Jun 2008
          • 13

          #5
          Did'nt want offend anyone, sorry if thats the way it came across.

          Your first post on this problem was two weeks ago and your not any further along than you were then.

          I was seriuos about pulling the heads. Either way, whatever is wrong, you will need to pull the heads and if you pull the heads you will have all the answers to all your questions.
          NOS bottles filled $3.50 per lb

          www.pistondealer.com

          DRH Specialty Co
          Complete Engine Machine Shop
          Building Performance Engines for Over 30 Years

          Comment

          • TurboX2
            friend of the machines
            • Jan 2003
            • 3245

            #6
            Absolutely no offense taken, didn't mean to sound that way if I did, and the advice is appreciated. I've been trying to get an idea what the problem is before tearing into it as I figured there are tests like compression that can't be done once its apart. Wasn't sure I'd be able to tell the problem for sure if I took it apart, and the last thing I want to do is figure its the heads, "fix" them, and have it still burning oil after its back together.... If I pull the heads how do I tell for sure if its guides or rings? Like I said haven't dealt with this before, and if I pull it apart and the bores look ok and the valves aren't loose in the guides then where am I?
            Dan Simons
            '11 5.0, 400a, 3.73s, HIDs, ARH 1-7/8" longtubes, Forgestar CF5v 19x9/10, MPSS 275/295, GT500 axle-back, Steeda springs, AirRaid CAI, BBK 85mm, AED tune

            Comment

            • 98RioRedGT
              TCS Homer
              • Mar 2004
              • 1966

              #7
              i have seen a couple trucks come into the dealer with bad valve stem seals. you can replaced them in the truck, but it looked like a huge pain in the ass!
              -DS Motorworks built non-pi 4.6 2v
              -1969 Mach1 428 SCJ project

              Comment

              • mike@drh
                TCS n00b
                • Jun 2008
                • 13

                #8
                Most engine shops will charge very little for an inspection and estimate on your heads.

                I charge $25.00 for disassy and inspection on a domestic V-8, two valve, pair of heads.

                If it's not the heads then it's "probably" the bore, rings or maybe broken ring lands.
                NOS bottles filled $3.50 per lb

                www.pistondealer.com

                DRH Specialty Co
                Complete Engine Machine Shop
                Building Performance Engines for Over 30 Years

                Comment

                • iamtheshaner
                  TCS Homer
                  • May 2008
                  • 3566

                  #9
                  Based on what we have discussed previously I'd say it is very likely due to valve guide wear. You should have a bit of a tapping noise especially when the engine is hot if this is the case. I have never come across a motor with bad valve guides that did NOT have valvetrain noise. Only one was close to being "quiet" but he had headers and exhaust on it. The noise from the exhaust would make the valvetrain noise much harder to detect.

                  I wouldn't worry too much about removing the heads and not being able to find your source. If you pull the heads and your cylinder walls still have a decent cross-hatching on them...I would say the bottom end is fine. Especially considering your lack of blowby and good compression #'s. Likewise, you should be able to get a much better look at your combustion chambers and intake/exhaust ports to see if they look exceptionally dirty. If you can get your hands on a valvespring compressor, you can diagnose your guides as well. They should have virtually NO play inside the guide. You should also be able to hold the valve in the guide by creating a seal with your finger. Kinda like holding soda pop in a straw by plugging one end up. Most of the time the valves are light enough and tight enough in the guide to defy gravity with suction.

                  Comment

                  • TurboX2
                    friend of the machines
                    • Jan 2003
                    • 3245

                    #10
                    I'd go ahead and tear it down if I had something else to drive, I've been trying to figure out just what the problem is so I can formulate a plan and keep downtime to a minimum. Doesn't look like thats gonna work out for me.... :idiot:
                    Dan Simons
                    '11 5.0, 400a, 3.73s, HIDs, ARH 1-7/8" longtubes, Forgestar CF5v 19x9/10, MPSS 275/295, GT500 axle-back, Steeda springs, AirRaid CAI, BBK 85mm, AED tune

                    Comment

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