2001 Expedition spark plug changing

[Iroc-Z]

The problem with the plugs blowing out is because people wait to long to change them. They can either get stuck in the head or loosen up and shoot out.

[Slow35th]

its actually caused by detonation.

[Pauly]

Well, at 120,000+ miles it's finally time to tackle the fun job of changing the plugs on this thing. All I've ever heard was that it's a pain in the ass to do. The job doesn't scare me, but if anyone here has some pointers that would be great. I heard there was a special tool/technique to replacing the rear ones. What do I need to look for?

Thanks

Did mine On my supercrew 5.4 pain in the ass but I couldn't justify 300 to 400 to just change plugs. I took 4 hours but was distracted plus I checked all my coils to see which were weak.

Basically passenger side is the easier side. Pull coil pack and fuel inj. plug just to get it out of the way. Be careful not to rip the boot. They can be tough to find. Tools swivel and a couple extensions and spark plug socket. 1/4 inch drives for coil packs is easiest. Pretty straight forward just becareful not to force the plug too much could strip. On drivers side the only thing I had to do was pop the fuel rail off just to get a little extra clearance. Make sure you use antisieze when you install new plugs.

[Chrm97PI]

4 hours, dam dude, they are a piece of cake. i could do them all day long in my sleep

[Chrm97PI]

oh and fuel rail removal is not necessary

[Fernanernie]

Its not that bad. Make sure that you have plenty of extensions and swivels and a couple beers.

Locking swivel extensions are your friend

[taank]

45 min tops

[Pauly]

4 hours, dam dude, they are a piece of cake. i could do them all day long in my sleep

Like I said was distracted and checked primary and secondary on coils. changed them at 120k also. just took my time and didn't want to create larger problems

[Pauly]

oh and fuel rail removal is not necessary

didn't remove popped it loose at the back.

[Iroc-Z]

its actually caused by detonation.

Really? I guess I have only seen it on vehicles that are neglected. Do they run to much timing or something?

[Ford Fan]

Don't forget to blow out the holes before you pull the plug. There will be plenty of dirt and debris down in there. It took me about an hour and a half to do my 2001 supercrew.

[MisterCMK]

Really? I guess I have only seen it on vehicles that are neglected. Do they run to much timing or something?

It happened to our Expedition and I can assure you that the truck is far from neglected. We were getting on the freeway after getting gas while pulling a trailer when the truck spit a plug.

[iamtheshaner]

the plugs are NOT forced out due to detonation.

Ford made heads with only a few threads..... Steel plug threads....alluminum head with a few threads.... simple as that.

Revised service heads (03 and later I believe) is threaded a few more times.

The biggest beef I have with their maintenance interval is the coolant. The rust inhibitors break down over time and it will cause your block to rust internally.

Anyone here ever dealt with a repeat heater core failure?

Most of the time it is due to electrolysis. The coolant will still protect against freezing and thus pass hydrometer testing all day long. But the additives break down and allow for electrolysis.....two dissimilar metals (iron and iron oxide) seperated by a slightly acidic liquid (coolant) is....... a battery. This weak electrical charge will corrode alluminum heater cores in about a year or two. The only fix is to replace the block (ha) or use a copper/brass core. You can also do things like add another engine ground strap to route the flow of electricity away from the heater.

Seen it a thousand times and it is all because of coolant left in longer than it should have been

[MisterCMK]

the plugs are NOT forced out due to detonation.

Ford made heads with only a few threads..... Steel plug threads....alluminum head with a few threads.... simple as that.

Revised service heads (03 and later I believe) is threaded a few more times.

Then why is the electrode gap on the plugs that blow out closed?

[MisterCMK]

The 5.4Ls and the 4.6Ls share the same cylinder head. The biggest issue with plug blow out is not the head itself, its in the PCM tunning.

Factory 5.4Ls and 6.8Ls in trucks (the most prone for blowing out plugs) are programed from the factory to stay in closed loop at WOT for a period of time....the 6.8Ls stay in closed loop at WOT nearly indefinatly. Most 6.8Ls ping themselfs to death with a trailer behind them, and the 5.4Ls in trucks arnt much differanct, they stay in closed loop for some calibations over 60 seconds...That means at full load wide open throttle, the PCM is comanding a 14.7:1 a/f ratio!!!!! its nuts!!!.

If you look at the spark plug that is typicaly still stick to the coil of the a truck that blows a plug out, you will typicaly see its electrode is closed (the ground strap hitting the center electrode), this is from pressure in the cylinder spiking increadibly high, from detonation!!!

Mustangs, crown victoris, marquies, explorers ect, do not have this closed loop delay at WOT, this is why such vehicles do not blow plugs..

Not too add comanding 14.7:1 at WOT just kills power... I recently tuned a 6.8L V10 truck that picked up nearly 40rwtq from just the tune, correcting the a/f. The truck actualy picked up 1mpg while pulling a trailer because it did not have to downshift so much while hitting hills. Now 1mpg may not sound like alot, but with a 38 gallon fuel tank, thats nearly 40 more miles on a tank, combined with more power to pull a trailer, it makes a big differance.

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