suspension ???s

[worxbullitt]

looking for opinions on suspension stuff. looking to upgrade and get car handling like it should, and just looking for some advise from those of you have stuff. i guess i was originally just gonna do new struts with a coilover kit/camber plates up front, but now im thinking that a k member with a arms and bump steer kit might be a good idea as well. several companies seem to be of the same opinion that a k member with new geometry and new a arms will drastically improve everything wrong with the front end of the car.. on the rear, i was just gonna do adjustable arms and struts, but now im looking at panhard and torque arm too but im not totally convinced that a pan hard(or watts) and torque arm arent overkill for most nonracing applications- anyone have these? are they really a huge help on the street? it seems that the torque arm and watts would fix my biggest gripes, and i guess it would save me a bit on upper arms, but im just not trying to spend 6k to get the car to handle great..so, would doing the rear first and k member and a arms latter be a good option getting me close without going totally broke?

[Steve]

I would say a three link rear and a K member would be a waste on the street. You will never push the car hard enough to realize the benefits of at least the k member, maybe the three link rear can be utilized for traction. I would say to get a good set of SFCs, MM RLCAs, Bilsteins and H&R springs and try that. A watts link is sexy but there a plenty of really fast cars on track with phbs.

[OrangeCrush 86]

I would say a three link rear and a K member would be a waste on the street. You will never push the car hard enough to realize the benefits of at least the k member, maybe the three link rear can be utilized for traction. I would say to get a good set of SFCs, MM RLCAs, Bilsteins and H&R springs and try that. A watts link is sexy but there a plenty of really fast cars on track with phbs.

I agree. Although, to me the K member is worth it. Simply because they can be had for a fair price and will drop your front end weight quite a bit.

[worxbullitt]

the bullitt stangs are already miles ahead of the stock gts when it comes to suspension and chassis. it has SFCs on from the factory, and also it uses a stock higher rate spring thats about 3/4" lower than regular gt's. not to mention the swaybars... i did throw a set of new tokicos on it when i got it but they are in need of replacement again, and im leaning toward a different strut.
ive never been scared of driving a car past limits, and do on occasion, and when i do, i really hate the way the car turns and feels. everything just seems to give up, and i have to fight it to get it go where i want. im just tired of dealing with that kinda personality from the car.. i dont have to worry about the car giving up before i do... thats why im even debating the rear TA, and watts, and while it might be a little on the street overkill side, im just not sure that just putting in new arms is gonna solve the rear from moving all over, do you guys install the boxing plates as well with those? i have to imagine that helps some too..the other nice thing about the TA and watts is i can take out my quad shocks and upper arms all together though...
i guess im sold already on a k member and a arm kit, but some offer stock geometry and some have the changed geometry that increases the wheelbase 3/4" and moves mounting points..anyone have experience with one over the other? i really just want to plan on getting it right the first time so i wont have to rebuy parts and mess with everything twice, thats why im looking for as much info as i can get so i make the correct buying decision!
thanks

[MisterCMK]

lol, miles ahead?

[worxbullitt]

big brakes-stock
bigger sway bars-stock
lowering springs with higher rate-stock
sub frame connectors-stock
(not to mention more hp/tq, improved pedal assembly, and the cool factor of not having a GT badge on the back, like every other mustang on the block!!)
- a bullitt will out handle a GT by 3-4mph on a slalom, and out brake em from 100 by over 60'!!

that my friend = MILES AHEAD!!! go drive one at a dealer if you can find one and youll see that its a totally different car than a GT.

the fact its still plagued by ill handling issues because of fords design sucks but at least they made an attempt to help em out!!

so, does anyone on this board actually have anything more than control arms, struts/springs and a camber kit???

[bad-speller]

so, does anyone on this board actually have anything more than control arms, struts/springs and a camber kit???

No, they have been long ago given up because of stuff like this:

You want a 100% technical local car forum, well go make one. TCS is pretty much about people.. not cars. There are a 100 websites out there where you can get good solid technical mustang information, why do we have to be one of them? You wanna know what cam to get? Mustang information isn't exactly hard to get man.

Groth obviously does know a lot about suspension, but I'm sick of the few guys who must just live/eat/breath mustang tech who complain about the lack of good information on a REGIONAL board. You must wake up and read mustang magazines/technical manuals all day.. do you read your kids Haynes manuals before bed? There is a heckuva lot more to a car scene then the cars and I think thats what makes TCS popular.

If you want good technical advise, ask HiTech in their forum. That's what it's for. But if you think you're gonna get top notch technical talk from a little regional board.. well maybe you need to hit google a little bit.


And this has nothing to do with Groth personally, I've always gotten along with him and he is a very nice guy in person. If he wants to leave the board over this.. o well.

So in other words, use Google.

Brian

[Steve]

Wow, surprised to see something that lame come from punch. Basically, you will get 100 people tell you that their QA1 or their other X brand Chinese crap is awesome because they lost 879lbs off the front end. This board has been the battle ground of many, many suspension part wars. In summary, most people don't give a shit about their parts as long as they work in the Porky's lot. There are a few guys that drag their parts and go over 110 mph and their advice is usually sound, however 1320 related. For good tech on road race suspension you can just call MM and order their parts or as Brian, suggested use Google because no one really cares enough to listen to or contribute to the technical discussion when it comes to RR stuff. After all, getting the car up to 110, 130 and 150 mph is only 1/3 of the fun we get.

[Steve]

I agree. Although, to me the K member is worth it. Simply because they can be had for a fair price and will drop your front end weight quite a bit.

Good ones start @ $600.

[chrisnuts]

I agree with 92MNstanger about maximum motorsports parts. They are top of the line and do amazing things. I have put quite a few of there parts as well as suspension and it is well worth the money. I haven't pushed them to there limits yet(and dont plan on it) but it is well worth the money.

[ScotWithOne_t]

My car has nothing more than MM SFCs, H&R race springs and Bilstien shocks. Stock lower control arms, stock bushings, stock swaybars, stock stock stock. The few mods I have done have made a HUGE difference in the handling of the car. I got to know the handling of my car pretty well before I made ANY suspension mods (1 season of autoX, and one season of open tranck and autoX). I would recommend doing similar mods to mine. I don't even have caster/camber plates yet...I imagine adding some (a lot) of negative camber will help the massive ungersteer I still have. I'm guessing understeer is what you are experiencing when you say your car "just gives up".

Start with springs, shocks, subframes, and CC plates. basically the MM starter box plus subframes. It will make the car much more fun to drive for about $1300.


Going beyond that, you are going to have to spend quite a bit more for quality Griggs or MM parts.

LCAs - $300
PHB - $350
TA - $600
Kmember - $600
coilover kit - $1000?
etc. etc.

[Steve]

Great advice, Scot. Baby steps and feel the difference each step of the way. For me the biggest (after the parts you mentioned) advantage came from a TA and I couldn't feel it on the street only in auto-x and track days.

Maybe some magic rubbed off on the parts Scot is using and others will need the entire kit...