Anyone here rebuild/set-up rearends?

[Sleeper]

I have a question...

The pinion seal on my Dana 60 just started to leak a little and it is slinging lube around the tunnel of the car...and it's leaving quarter-sized drips on the garage floor. It's not dripping directly from the pinion seal though...whats happening is it seeps out and gets sprayed on the tunnel of the car, then it runs down off there...it doesnt leave any drips directly under the yoke of the rearend....it's somewhere off to the side so I was wondering where it was coming from and traced it back to the pinion seal.

So here are my questions...and I haven't done any research on this yet, so bear with me...

Can I pull the yoke off and replace the seal without disassembling the rearend?

Is pinion preload done with a crush sleeve? And would that have to be replaced if I pull the yoke but do not disassemble the rear?

What kind of trucks did these Dana 60s come in? Is there any difference in pinion shaft diameter, or are they all the same for the 60? (For when I go buy a seal...cuz I'm just guessing Checker isn't going to have a listing for a dana 60 in a 98 camaro, lol)

Is it also possible that the cold weather making it leak? It wasnt dirty when I bought it, but maybe it had been cleaned up...I dont know. It wasnt dripping earlier this year...kind of all of a sudden started...


Thanks in advance!

[mnstang]

technically speaking, you are supposed to replace the crush sleeve.

every one that i have ever replaced i mark where the nut is on the yoke and yoke is on diff, and put it just a tick past the mark when i am putting back together and have never had one problem.

ps. should have got a ford 9"

[2 beer]

technically speaking, you are supposed to replace the crush sleeve.

every one that i have ever replaced i mark where the nut is on the yoke and yoke is on diff, and put it just a tick past the mark when i am putting back together and have never had one problem.

ps. should have got a ford 9"

I did literally hundreds of these when I worked chrysler. Its that simple.

[Sleeper]

yeah, i know i need a 9"...

well alright...i cleaned everything up, changed fluid and i'm gonna keep an eye on it. i have no problem changing the seal myself, i just dont wanna mess something up and then have to pull the rear to have it gone through.

[Turbo302]

Do exactly as mentioned with the markings. I usually go a tick tighter when reinstalling yoke so it still has positive preload on the crush sleeve (just a little).

Use some red locktite on the nut also and make sure to pre grease the seal.

I've seen new seals go bad if either they were not greased, or if the pinion preload was set a little too tight initially causing excessive heat upon break in.

Early Mopar Hemi Cars had Dana 60's.

My 98' Ram 2500 Gas V8 has Dana 60's Front and Rear.

If you need any help/advice, shoot me a PM or call the shop 651-CAR-SHOP.

I'm just down the road off Lake Dr.

Tim

[Sleeper]

I'm just down the road off Lake Dr.

Tim

are you right off lake drive by centennial h.s. and sunset cycle?

i think i stopped over with bill one day when you had just moved in and we were checking out the garage...

[Turbo302]

Just North of Main Street about a mile. My shop and house are right next to each other.

If you ever need anything, dont hesitate to call.

I ocassionally hear an LSx off in the distance doing some testing and think of you

Tim

[Sleeper]

sweet, thanks tim.

i will have to install a clutch sometime within the next month...and laying on the garage floor isnt to appealing. i'll throw some beer and $$$ your way

[Turbo302]

Cool... Let me know.

I've had many an f-car on the hoist. I will have a Black 98' SS here next week that I am putting a Spohn k-member/arms on along with a different rear sway bar setup.

I dont know what happened... I'm a Mustang guy, but seem to always be working on GM Performance. Maybe that is why I have some funny ideas/plans for some sort of Hybrid You'll have to stop by for the full scoup.


Later...

Tim

[RyanM]

id just drill a hole from the leak to another hole on top of the diff and install a rubber hose for it to go back in

[Chrm97PI]

use a punch, and mark the shaft and the nut, remove nut, remove yoke,remove old seal, replace seal, install yoke, install nut and line up with mark on the shaft, top off fluids and your all done.

[Sleeper]

id just drill a hole from the leak to another hole on top of the diff and install a rubber hose for it to go back in

will that keep the fluid cool as well?

[Mullet Tuner]

9>...........ahh nevermind.

[2000 roush]

technically speaking, you are supposed to replace the crush sleeve.

every one that i have ever replaced i mark where the nut is on the yoke and yoke is on diff, and put it just a tick past the mark when i am putting back together and have never had one problem.

ps. should have got a ford 9"

There is no crush sleeve on a dana 60 as far as the seal put it out real nice and there should be numbers on it and call napa and give them the number its that simple. if there is no number do it by diameter sizes. As long as you dont move the car after you pull the pinion you will be fine. Also make sure that the yoke does not have a groove worn in to the yoke or it will leak again

[Stormwalker]

Hmmm, all I do to Dana axles to replace pinion seals is just take the driveshaft off, undo the nut holding the thingy on, slide it off, take old seal out, pound new seal in with large socket, and put everything back together. I never worry about marking things or anything, haven't really had a problem yet.