Constantly dead battery on a chevy prism? Advice please

[Emart]

Don't know where to put this thread, it's not a stang but give me info anyways. So there's a new battery in this prism, but it dies all the time and we have to jump it in -9 degree weather. Is there something wrong with the charging system? Anything I should check? Say screw it and keep jumping it when it needs it until it's dead for other reasons?

Any info would be great, thanks.

-Eric

[Akromix]

Take out alternator

Bring to parts store

Test Alternator

BLAH BLAH BLAH

[mg72]

You could do all that, but you could just buy a $12 multimeter and check the voltage when the car is running. If it's below 14.xx volts you need an alternator, otherwise you have some sort of drain that needs to be found. It could be something simple like a trunk lamp that does not shut off.

[68GTO]

You could do all that, but you could just buy a $12 multimeter and check the voltage when the car is running. If it's below 14.xx volts you need an alternator, otherwise you have some sort of drain that needs to be found. It could be something simple like a trunk lamp that does not shut off.

[RyanM]

yes i would say you have a battery drain

[mnstang]

i doubt it's the alternator, you have a draw.

[Meegs]

Wild Ass Guess....
In the audio world there is a tactic called the "Big 3" in where the factory wire is inadaquate for what is being asked of it.
1) Ground from the motor to chasis
2) Ground from chasis to batt
3) Power from alt to batt

the output from my amps went from 12v back to 14.2v when i burp the same bass beat. after doing this. also my headlights do not dim at intersections anymore. even if i was not cranking the stereo all that much with the combination of heated seats, HVAC, DRL/head lamps, i would get the volt meter bouncing all over the place. after I did the "big 3" that took care of all my problems (i run the stock alt 2boot).

NOW!~ B4 yall jump on me about stereos not relating to his issues, for just 1 second take a second to hear me out. in cold start ups you will need all the cold cranking amps a good batt in good operating condition can give. when you turned off your prism chances are you had the heater on hi, head lights on, rear defrost etc, etc. when you went back to start your car because the alt did not have sufficient time to charge you did not have all the cold cranking amps required to start your car.

in short you batt is just plain not getting a full charge EVEN WITH A PERFECTLY FINE ALTERNATOR.

[Ford Fan]

You could do all that, but you could just buy a $12 multimeter and check the voltage when the car is running. If it's below 14.xx volts you need an alternator, otherwise you have some sort of drain that needs to be found. It could be something simple like a trunk lamp that does not shut off.

This only works if the battery is fully charged up before doing this test. If the battery is dead, the voltage at the battery can still read below 14 volts and the alternator could still be working. But, I do agree, it sounds like a drain to me. Or a junk battery. If the battery is discharged and it's extremely cold outside, they can freeze. Once it freezes, it's not coming back. Nick

[2 beer]

This only works if the battery is fully charged up before doing this test. If the battery is dead, the voltage at the battery can still read below 14 volts and the alternator could still be working. But, I do agree, it sounds like a drain to me. Or a junk battery. If the battery is discharged and it's extremely cold outside, they can freeze. Once it freezes, it's not coming back. Nick

and dont put a frozen battery on the charger

[Akromix]

and dont put a frozen battery on the charger

I've done that...it was interesting.

[Ford Fan]

and dont put a frozen battery on the charger

Good point.

And Akro, I have too. "Interesting" is a good word to describe it. Kind of like a cool science experiment gone wrong.

[I Tried]

and dont put a frozen battery on the charger

Ive done that and it cost me a garage and a street rod.

Tim