royal purple????

[jjhirsch]

ware is the nerest store i can get some and what do u guys thing of it?

[RustyLX]

Mas has it but it's not Cheap like 8.00 QT

[CaptCrunch]

I know a number of racers that run it happily but it is expensive. I would strongly recommend Amsoil, Mobil one, or Valvoline synthetic for street or street/stip car so you can buy it locally in bulk cheaper.( I use those in every case except in my engine and am very happy with them). I still like convental Mobile one or Valvoline with one of a number of oil addatives myself. The one addative that you can buy locally or in stores that I have found that does add life to bearings is Lucas. Most Napa's have it.

Most of the synthetic oil motors I have done look great durring rip down (although the bearings are mis-colored compared to a conventional oil motor), but then I have rarely seen a motor where it would of lived with synthetic over dino oil. Most non-race applications I still feel don't really benifit from synthetic oil as it really only shines over dino oil in extreme heat when it resists break down. I would rather get a cheap oil cooler and change my conventional oil (w/ addiative) twice as often and still have a few dollars in my pocket. But that is only my 2 cents on the subject.

[theduckylittle]

So long as oil is the Topic, I thought I'd chime in about forced induction cars, incase anyone decides to ever use the search function...

With a forced induction car, especially turbo's, Synthetic is a good idea for covering one's ass. The turbo will REALLY heat up the oil when it goes through, and sometimes a good oil cooler just isn't enough. 5W30 is great... until you realize your turbo bearing is shot and you can't get another centersection for at least 6-7 days. Then you'll appreciate having synthetic fluid around. hehehe.

-Duck

[CaptCrunch]

Originally posted by theduckylittle
So long as oil is the Topic, I thought I'd chime in about forced induction cars, incase anyone decides to ever use the search function...

With a forced induction car, especially turbo's, Synthetic is a good idea for covering one's ass. The turbo will REALLY heat up the oil when it goes through, and sometimes a good oil cooler just isn't enough. 5W30 is great... until you realize your turbo bearing is shot and you can't get another centersection for at least 6-7 days. Then you'll appreciate having synthetic fluid around. hehehe.

-Duck

Good point!

[Darkness]

Originally posted by CaptCrunch
I would rather get a cheap oil cooler and change my conventional oil (w/ addiative) twice as often and still have a few dollars in my pocket. But that is only my 2 cents on the subject.

but then wouldnt you be paying 2times as much anyways since your are changing it twice as often. $8 for 6months or $4 for 3months= same thing

[CaptCrunch]

But that still doesn't change the fact that the oil in the sythetic car has double the dirt, impurities, etc. in it if you go 5,000+ miles. Which IMO is right up there with having broken down oil on the no no scale. Also you have taken no considerations for a fresh oil filter? Most stock filters are pretty small, none the less when you use cheapy filters there is less filtering element inside (Cut open a fram or no name brand and compare it to a wix or hastings). Plus if you change on normal intervols anyways it would cost twice as much.

The way I see it 95% of the cars out there that are drivers and have no need to worry about it if you aren't overheating it. The biggest factor is how each handles heat.... but the amount of heat you need to break down dyno oil is definetly gonna be causing some additional problems if it gets that hot.

I know this board is full of enthusuiasts and the price of an extra 50 or so a year for their summer driver is probably nothing. I'm just getting real tired of the whole synthetic is god and conventional oil isn't even good enough for your lawn mower crap. That is far from the case and most "enthusiasts" unfortunetly are swayed by manufacturer claims and unjustified data rather then independant scientific tests. Advertisements are not valid sources of unbiased information.

[Drunko McMoppo]

Originally posted by CaptCrunch
But that still doesn't change the fact that the oil in the sythetic car has double the dirt, impurities, etc. in it if you go 5,000+ miles. Which IMO is right up there with having broken down oil on the no no scale. Also you have taken no considerations for a fresh oil filter? Most stock filters are pretty small, none the less when you use cheapy filters there is less filtering element inside (Cut open a fram or no name brand and compare it to a wix or hastings). Plus if you change on normal intervols anyways it would cost twice as much.

The way I see it 95% of the cars out there that are drivers and have no need to worry about it if you aren't overheating it. The biggest factor is how each handles heat.... but the amount of heat you need to break down dyno oil is definetly gonna be causing some additional problems if it gets that hot.

I know this board is full of enthusuiasts and the price of an extra 50 or so a year for their summer driver is probably nothing. I'm just getting real tired of the whole synthetic is god and conventional oil isn't even good enough for your lawn mower crap. That is far from the case and most "enthusiasts" unfortunetly are swayed by manufacturer claims and unjustified data rather then independant scientific tests. Advertisements are not valid sources of unbiased information.

Damn, you're making me feel guilty about putting synthetic in my Spirit But it has a turbo so by Ducky's standard I did the right thing, but by yours I.... hell if I know.

-mark

[CaptCrunch]

I wouldn't feel guilty... just that on most applications I don't see a need for it. Turbo... motor oil feed supercharger... hardcore serious race machine (drag, road, or otherwise)... definetly worth it, but for some NA 2000 GT that sees 95% street action... even some harder street abuse... I'm not really sold on it for the price. I also totally disagree with running any oil for more then 3k. Seen too many motor problems cause of gum, contaminants, etc.

LTD, I would be careful sticking synthetic into a 190k car. Synthetic has been known to start every seal leaking in mid and high milage applications.

Since we are on the subject... anyone seen that Amsoil 25k claim? I love Amsoil and they make a great quality product, but I really have to question that one.