turbo help...

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  • germ
    TCS Homer
    • May 2005
    • 600

    turbo help...

    maybe one of you turbo'd guys might be able to help me out....

    man, where do i start...

    *long read, sorry, but i figured the more info up front, the better*

    ok, here is the main problem i need some advice with.

    last night i was scanning my car to see what kind of knock i was getting and noticed that my 1-2 shift was "funny", so i changed around my shift point/rpm ONLY. i was getting a little knock right after the 1-2 shift and sometimes having a commanded shift rpm a lot higher/lower than the command shift mph can cuase this, so i was playing around with that. my commanded mph is 40 and the rpm was 5800, scans show 46mph and 6100 is when the shift is happening! so i lowered the rpm to 5500 which, according to the scans, would be right about where 40mph would be. (stock tranny is 3.33 fdr, current tranny is 3.29, but i dont see how there is that much difference)

    after flashing my pcm, i decided to put my MBC back on so i can run 10-12 psi and tune at that psi (i was running 8psi off the wastegate).

    before doing any of this, the car felt fine (with the exception of the knock, like 4*, so it wasnt a "major" problem then)

    so i flash my computer with the new settings and added back the MBC (i have had this on for a while and never experienced any issues with boost creep or anything)

    so here's the new found problem. if i mash the gas, they whole car surges/pulses as it accelerates. the boost gauge doesnt "show" a surging/pulsing of boost, it hits 11psi and stays). never happened before (i was using 1.1.8f until today), if i "ease" into the throttle, the pulse/surge is faintly noticable, however it is MUCH less than if i were to just mash the gas.

    im hitting the dyno TODAY after work and i really want to be able to pull at 12 psi, so i need some ideas of what to look at in order to GET to 12 psi.

    here are some details of my scans from last night...

    the b1s1 o2 sensor (2 months old, A/C Delco brand) reads in the 930mv range with the exception of 1 cell showing a 52mv reading, yes, i said 52mv it was the last cell before it shifted into 2nd, the previous cell was 690, and the previous cells were 930's, (i have ran 880mv's with out knock for months), and then after the shift the cells were 930's and thats when the knock starts.

    the wastegate was bought new back in feburary, spring is 8psi. havent had issues with it yet, it is a Tial Sport (not a knockoff)

    MBC is a standard brass fitting ball and spring (ive used it to run 12 psi all summer) except for the last few weeks due to turbo problems and having to get another turbo, so i had it running off the wastegate for safety.

    i JUST changed my plugs (gapped to .039, stock gap is .060, and i have been running .039 at 12psi without blowout issues), 2 degrees colder than stock on sunday (AL 104's, stock is AL 606).

    all vac/boost lines are silcone lines (4mm) and double zip tied or clamped down with extremely small clamps . im almost positive there is not a leak, but you never know and that will be something i check today.



    here are a couple other "odd" things that i have seen....

    during boost, the b1s1 o2 seems to "glitch" and drop down to a reading of like 52mv, yes, 52mv, no typo. i have seen this happen with other cars with the powertuner, so it could be a "glitch" in the software(?), but i dont know. but for me, it only happened at the 1-2 shift i was speaking of earlier. i have also noticed that it happened again on the way home during a WOT run. but this was in 3rd gear after a downshift from 4th.

    after flashing the computer last night, all of a sudden i have a "tick" at light/moderate throttle and as soon as i get into medium boost (5psi+) its no longer audible. it does not do it at idle or full boost (i cant hear it anyway, my car is kinda loud, ) and it does not do it if i put it in N or P and rev it out. only under "load"





    so here is what I know i should check for the pulse/surge...

    take off MBC, verify it doesnt do it without MBC, if it does not do it, then it has something to do with the MBC or Wastegate.

    if it still does it, look at the wastegate, possible rip/tear in the diaphram? i had this happen on my old Deltagate, but it didnt act like this

    check tranny fluid level, make sure its correct (im pretty sure its fine, and the tranny holds well IMO, it still breaks loose at the top of 1st and squeels them into 2nd) even with the issues i am currently having, it feels like its holding the power just fine.

    check for vac leaks

    check turbo and see if the compressor wheel is still intact and not rubbing the housing (im sure thats not it, the turbo is 1 week old today and it does not make any sounds like it wasnt balanced (i call that sound the cat in heat sound).


    for the ticking sound....

    check oil level (i just changed it last week, could possibly be a little low)

    i have installed higher rate springs (ls6 yellow) to eliminate valve float, they are commonly known to "tick" at idle, but i have never heard of them doing it under accelaration.

    possibly the vavle seat or valve itselft has been compromised? maybe even the spring seat? but that doesnt explain why it only doest it at certain rpm's and under load.


    for the o2 reading of 52mv's....

    shit, i have no idea. i have another o2, but its a bosch and i dont like bosch o2's, but i never had an odd reading like that before with the bosch. i may just put that in and see what happens.

    add a little fuel and see what happens. i have never had much knock with this car, the GM 60*v6's are pretty knock free and balanced pretty well. the most knock i have ever had was 2* or so, and that was from running really lean, 840mv, and all i did was bump up the fuel and it was fine, never seen knock again.




    info about the engine/tranny/turbo. the engine has about 75k and the tranny has about 43k, so they are in fairly good condition. the new turbo was put on last weds, and ran off the wastegate (8psi) until last night and has maybe 400 miles on it.



    ANY help, suggestions, comments are welcome.


    and if you made it through this whole post and read it, im sorry i had to post the long thread, but i need some thoughts and the more info given up front the better IMO.

    so if you did make it to this point and actually post some usefull info, ill buy you a cookie,


    thanks!
  • germ
    TCS Homer
    • May 2005
    • 600

    #2
    pulse/surge has been fixed

    god damn vac/boost hose had "split" at the seems causing a leak before the boost controller.



    now for the odd b1s1 readings and tick sound.

    Comment

    • theduckylittle
      Duck uber Alles
      • Jan 2003
      • 5435

      #3
      The tick sound can be a plethora of different things. Hell, I had a set of injectors that would tick like a god-damn clock. I'd check to see those.

      The knock has me more concerned. You might really want to consider backing off a few degrees of timing. (Sounds like you have a tuner so it shouldn't be too hard.)

      Is the old turbo the same as the new one? Or did you "upgrade" the knocking and what not could get worse because you're new turbo is smaller (thus heating the air more) or larger and pumping in more air causing an extreme lean condition being seen as a "fluke" on your comptuer readings.

      Do you have a WB02 what is the real A:F ratio looking like across the powerband?

      -DUck
      1992 Mazda MX3: L3 100 BigYmp.

      Comment

      • germ
        TCS Homer
        • May 2005
        • 600

        #4
        duck, i am sure its not the injectors, unless they recently started doing it. im sure its an exhaust leak or valve train noise.

        timing is set at 18* right now, stock timing is about 25*

        the "new" turbo is the same size compressor wheel (57 trim) and compressor housing (.50), however the new turbo's turbine housing is a .70 compared to the old .84, both turbo's are using a "P" or "O" wheel, i just dont remember which one, but they both use the same turbine wheel, compressor housing, and compressor wheel, its just the turbine housing thats different.

        however, this is the 2nd of the "new" turbo's (the first have a catastrophic failure and was replaced under warranty), and the tune was fine with the 1st "new" turbo.


        im almost thinking that the gas quality has gone down some, and according to the EPA, they have lowered the standards for fuel in order to ease the pain at the pump for consumers evidently.

        so, i will add some fuel and see what happens


        thanks!

        Comment

        • germ
          TCS Homer
          • May 2005
          • 600

          #5
          im hitting the dyno in a couple hours at RJR, i will be able to verify the a/f with a wideband

          Comment

          • theduckylittle
            Duck uber Alles
            • Jan 2003
            • 5435

            #6
            Cool, you might also want to look at getting the fuel tested. I know some of the changes in sulfer levels in the fuels (I cant' remember which way right now) that the EPA is allowing will make for different fuel. When you're not buying stuff like Rockett or Torco you can't really expect consistency.

            If you can watch your fuel pressure do that too. If the miss is happening on/near shifts it could be that you're running out of either fuel pump (doubt it) or have a bad FPR (happens more commonly than I'd like to think...)

            -Duck
            1992 Mazda MX3: L3 100 BigYmp.

            Comment

            • germ
              TCS Homer
              • May 2005
              • 600

              #7
              a brand new Walbro 255lph was installed last feb along with 42# injectors, so i have plenty of fuel "available"

              however the FPR is stock and will be looked at/changed out. i have like 3 of them laying around.


              i did richen up the PE A/F some, it feels better. but i was not able to dyno yesterday. couldnt get my car hooked up to the strap safely enough so i wasnt able to do anything with that.

              Comment

              • theduckylittle
                Duck uber Alles
                • Jan 2003
                • 5435

                #8
                Oh, poo, I was really hoping to see an AF graph...
                1992 Mazda MX3: L3 100 BigYmp.

                Comment

                • germ
                  TCS Homer
                  • May 2005
                  • 600

                  #9
                  if i can get the cash for the dyno time i bought (see the classifieds) i will be hitting up Elite very soon.

                  Comment

                  • germ
                    TCS Homer
                    • May 2005
                    • 600

                    #10
                    i also think the pulse is somewhat ignition related.

                    i will probably replace the wires and double check the plugs today.

                    Comment

                    • budderigs
                      gogo gadget rigs
                      • Apr 2005
                      • 12988

                      #11
                      agreed the pulsing sounds like a plug wire... your tick/knock sounds like detonation which is a bitch with turbo cars... I would try backing the timing of one degree at a time and ritchening up the fuel a little untill the tick goes a way... after that you can play with it more to find out where it proforms the best...

                      fix your knock first then worry about power. most tuners wont let you dyno if there is the slitest hint of detonation.
                      rides:
                      00 Yukon xl with butt warmers.
                      1986 fox body vert. that never gets driven
                      thundercougarfalconbird
                      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DenZguEYA8s

                      Comment

                      • germ
                        TCS Homer
                        • May 2005
                        • 600

                        #12
                        well many cars have KR straight from the factory, and i am almost postive the "tick" isnt detonation because it would show up as KR on the scan tool, and there is no KR when you hear the "tick".

                        for all i know, it could be the plug wire arc'ing. it almost sounds like a electric shock. and every once and a while, its hard to start. and i cant really ride in the engine bay while driving down the road to place the noise, lol.


                        but i do know there is a slight exhaust leak now. so i will be messing with the car most of this afternoon

                        Comment

                        • theduckylittle
                          Duck uber Alles
                          • Jan 2003
                          • 5435

                          #13
                          Originally posted by germ
                          well many cars have KR straight from the factory, and i am almost postive the "tick" isnt detonation because it would show up as KR on the scan tool, and there is no KR when you hear the "tick".

                          for all i know, it could be the plug wire arc'ing. it almost sounds like a electric shock. and every once and a while, its hard to start. and i cant really ride in the engine bay while driving down the road to place the noise, lol.


                          but i do know there is a slight exhaust leak now. so i will be messing with the car most of this afternoon
                          My initial instinct was to say, "It's a chevy, it has an exhaust leak"

                          I don't think I've ever ridden in a 350-powered car that doesn't have an exhaust tick. (Yes, i know yours is a 3.4 FWD V6 and has NOTHING to do with the 350 ... but it's an amusing observation none-the-less)

                          If it's a plug wire you can try swapping them across a couple of cylinders and seeing if your tick "moves."

                          -Duck
                          1992 Mazda MX3: L3 100 BigYmp.

                          Comment

                          • germ
                            TCS Homer
                            • May 2005
                            • 600

                            #14
                            lol, exhaust leaks are common with the General, ahahaha and its not engine specific anymore.


                            im going to try and hit up Elite on Tuesday. im going to buy an hour instead of just a few pulls.

                            at least that way i can test a few things, settings, ideas i have.

                            Comment

                            • Mullet Tuner
                              TCS Homer
                              • Apr 2004
                              • 15906

                              #15
                              Originally posted by theduckylittle
                              My initial instinct was to say, "It's a chevy, it has an exhaust leak"

                              I don't think I've ever ridden in a 350-powered car that doesn't have an exhaust tick. (Yes, i know yours is a 3.4 FWD V6 and has NOTHING to do with the 350 ... but it's an amusing observation none-the-less)

                              If it's a plug wire you can try swapping them across a couple of cylinders and seeing if your tick "moves."

                              -Duck
                              I hate exhaust leaks
                              Originally posted by Gerald
                              black z is a TCS fgt he should sell that z and go buy a blown 87 gt so he could be a true TCS fgt

                              Comment

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