Stroker kit or shortblock?

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  • Roast'em
    has posted this
    • Oct 2002
    • 5496

    Stroker kit or shortblock?

    I'm trying to weigh out the cost difference and time needed when buying a stroker kit for my stock block or just paying a few bucks more for the whole DSS stroker shortblock.

    Most kits look to be in the 1000 - 1200 dollar range and then I'd have to get my block machined, hot tanked, etc and that's another 500 right? Then do I just assemble it or are there some other hidden costs involved? I know some guys on here have built their own, so if they could chime in and tell me is it worth the money saved when assembling a stroker yourself? Or is the proffesionally built and balanced $2500 DSS block the better route?

    Rob
  • DNeinstadt
    Administrator
    Admin
    • Oct 2002
    • 12577

    #2
    I've got less than $2500 into my stroker shortblock.

    But it all depends on how soon you want it and whether or not you're interested in paying for it all at once or breaking it up a bit.

    Start collecting pieces.

    Dan
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
    This post has been edited by D9

    Originally posted by Slow35th

    Comment

    • mnstang
      Bookending TCS
      • Oct 2002
      • 33500

      #3
      i think buying the shortblock is the better way to go.... that's why i did it.
      one of the reasons i did, was because i didn't know of any shops that were real good with ford stuff. everyone knew the ins and outs of chevy's... and granted a motor is a motor, but i think a company that has been building sbf's for 20 years will know more than some shop with joe shmoe doing the machining.
      and, time was more of an issue in my case also, so that was another factor for me. it was less than 2 months from the time my old motor broke, and when i got this one fired up.
      another big plus is, with a shortblock you get a warranty.
      i really think when everything is said and done, buying a shortblock outright isn't even that much more.
      and with dss you get that main support, so factor that into the 2500 bucks.
      and don't forget if you buy a kit, you have to get those balanced too.
      another reason i liked the shortblock.. the thing was ready to go when i got it... the block was painted, all the boltholes in the motor were tapped.... bla bla bla.
      and before you do either one, plan on spending alot of money for all the little shit you need to make both work.

      Comment

      • Roast'em
        has posted this
        • Oct 2002
        • 5496

        #4
        Greg did you have to send in a core to DSS?

        Comment

        • mnstang
          Bookending TCS
          • Oct 2002
          • 33500

          #5
          no, i have my old shortblock sitting in my garage.

          Comment

          • theduckylittle
            Duck uber Alles
            • Jan 2003
            • 5435

            #6
            Well, here's maybe somethings you have or have not considered... but are maybe worth thinking about.

            "Pro Short-block"
            * Comes with a warranty <-- VERY nice feature
            * It's done and you don't have to fuck with it. <-- very very nice feature
            * You don't have to worry about messing up your first engine rebuild.
            * They got the parts cheaper than you and saved your time to build it. woohoo.

            "Pro Stroke It"
            * You can say "I stroked my car until it was faster"
            * You've done the work yourself and there's something very satisfying in that.
            * It's cheaper.
            * You gain the skills that you need to do future engine projects.

            The biggest con to doing it yourself, however, is the amount of down time you need if you plan on doing it to your current block. That takes the whole thing down for hte count while you await the funds or the time to actually finish up the project. And that's a real bitch of a feeling.

            -Duck
            1992 Mazda MX3: L3 100 BigYmp.

            Comment

            • Roast'em
              has posted this
              • Oct 2002
              • 5496

              #7
              Well this would all happen during the winter so I'd have plenty of time to do it. But that warranty and proffesional build sounds nice.

              If somebody could break down the cost of doing it yourself with a 1200 dollar 331 rotating assembly I'd appreciate it.

              Comment

              • SVT5LITER
                Admin
                • Oct 2002
                • 44035

                #8
                I guess it depends on what you're looking for. The points have been made.
                Myself, I think I'd go the route Greg did when I do mine... just cuz I don't want alot of downtime. Doin' it over the winter eh? Is the garage heated??
                Kinda bites when you're out there freezin' yer nards off puttin' together a motor.

                It is kinda cool watchin' Dans motor go together tho... and cheaper (well of course in "find a deal" Dan's project ).

                Here's a do-it-yourself page on it.
                302 Stroker
                F/S: '94 Cobra, Rio Red/Saddle, 34.5K Orig Miles, Light Mods, 20yr Owner.

                WTB: Imperial Blue TBSS

                Comment

                • SVT5LITER
                  Admin
                  • Oct 2002
                  • 44035

                  #9
                  Here's a spec page.

                  331 Specs
                  F/S: '94 Cobra, Rio Red/Saddle, 34.5K Orig Miles, Light Mods, 20yr Owner.

                  WTB: Imperial Blue TBSS

                  Comment

                  • TurboX2
                    friend of the machines
                    • Jan 2003
                    • 3245

                    #10
                    Don't get all too hopped up over the "warranty" issue. Something goes wrong you first have to get them to agree that it might be something wrong with the motor assembly, vs. something you did. You then have to remove the motor and ship it across the county for $150-$200. At this point its completely out of your hands and away from your eyes, and they may just say it was your fault. You then pay them to fix it, and to ship it back across the country. If you have stuff done locally you walk in personally and deal with it, you get WAY better service face to face than over a telephone.

                    Besides, there isn't much to go wrong if its properly assembled. Hell, I'm sure Dan's motor will go at least 500 miles before it spins a bearing or something....



                    You can do it yourself for probably $1600, vs. $2500, if you feel confident enough to put it together I don't see 'piece of mind' being worth $900....
                    Dan Simons
                    '11 5.0, 400a, 3.73s, HIDs, ARH 1-7/8" longtubes, Forgestar CF5v 19x9/10, MPSS 275/295, GT500 axle-back, Steeda springs, AirRaid CAI, BBK 85mm, AED tune

                    Comment

                    • DNeinstadt
                      Administrator
                      Admin
                      • Oct 2002
                      • 12577

                      #11
                      Originally posted by TurboX2
                      Hell, I'm sure Dan's motor will go at least 500 miles before it spins a bearing or something....

                      :fu2:
                      ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
                      This post has been edited by D9

                      Originally posted by Slow35th

                      Comment

                      • TurboX2
                        friend of the machines
                        • Jan 2003
                        • 3245

                        #12
                        Originally posted by DNeinstadt
                        :fu2:
                        Wow, only took 2 minutes...nice RT!! I was only kidding anyway, I feel fully confident that your motor will last for well over 1000 miles...
                        Dan Simons
                        '11 5.0, 400a, 3.73s, HIDs, ARH 1-7/8" longtubes, Forgestar CF5v 19x9/10, MPSS 275/295, GT500 axle-back, Steeda springs, AirRaid CAI, BBK 85mm, AED tune

                        Comment

                        • DNeinstadt
                          Administrator
                          Admin
                          • Oct 2002
                          • 12577

                          #13
                          You should know I'm on this site every 10 minutes, on average.
                          ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
                          This post has been edited by D9

                          Originally posted by Slow35th

                          Comment

                          • Roast'em
                            has posted this
                            • Oct 2002
                            • 5496

                            #14
                            So Dan, you're saying that if I buy a 1200 dollar rotating assembly I can have all the block prep, balancing etc completely done with 400 bucks?

                            or is there a cheaper 331 stroker kit that you'd recommend? While you're at it where's the best local machine/engine shop around here?

                            Rob

                            Comment

                            • zeus
                              espresso soaked
                              • Jan 2003
                              • 1884

                              #15
                              The best engine shop, which will be absolutely unmatched by anyone else in town, is Performance Concepts. Talk to Mr. Gene Pierson.

                              The best dyno (who also is an excellent machine shop) is Ron at R&R Performance.

                              These are the cream of the crop - nobody is even close.
                              ~

                              Comment

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