FAMOUS CODE 212 ON A 95 MUSTANG GTS

[BadAssChevy]

Recently bought a 95 Mustang GTS and drove it home and to work the next day just fine. When i went to go to lunch I started it up and it ran like shit, RPM's going up and down ranging from 500-1300 and almost stallingunless i give it gas. It seems as it will correct itself for a minute then start again. checked the codes and 212 was the one that pointed to my problem.

Heres where im confused. I know it's for the TFI module or connector and i got a new one from Ford and plugged it in and ran the same. Here is what I have tried so far. Replaced Plugs,wires,cap,rotor,tfi mod,cleaned maf,wiped out throttle body,checked fuel pressure, ect. All of this and still the same problem and I have been looking on the internet and this seems to be a common problem but still it's not one particular thing it seems to be different fix for everyone.

no check engine light on but codes stored which is odd. I also have a vibration while accelerating that feels kinda like flywheel chatter but im thinking it may be related to misfire also. Anyways im just checking to see if anyone on here has/had the same problem or maybe a ford technician that's on here can help me.

Thank you

[wiplash]

What am I missing here, p0212 is an injector circuit malfunction, it seems as though you're hunting in the ignition system.

[BadAssChevy]

What am I missing here, p0212 is an injector circuit malfunction, it seems as though you're hunting in the ignition system.

It's technically OBD 1 as the OBD port under dash inside car is dead and I have to test at diagnostic port behind pass side strut tower. I have pulled all dtc code definetions both online and on my pegasys scanner and my other one as well and it comes up "Loss of IDM input to pcm or SPOUT circut grounded". Like i said I have replaced the TFI module but it didnt help and i seen no damage to wiring harness or spout connector. Im going to look again today and see if i can come up with something. Any help would be great!!!

[DNeinstadt]

Check your throttle position sensor & check your Idle air control valve as those are typically culprits.

[Slow35th]

Then replace all the o2 sensors.

[BadAssChevy]

Check your throttle position sensor & check your Idle air control valve as those are typically culprits.

Thanks, I was going to do that today but nice to know those are well known culprits

[BadAssChevy]

Then replace all the o2 sensors.

Good point, I thought those would throw a check engine light though? I know GM's are sensitive with that but Ford must not be.

[BadAssChevy]

Correct me if im wrong but wouldn't that code only be caused by lack of tach reference or misfire condition? How common are the distributer's to go out on these vehicles? I used all OEM parts for the complete tune up in efforts to try and eliminate future problems down the road. This had original plug wires on it with 174k and even still has the original clutch so I have a feeling the guy may not have taken care of it's preventive and scheduled maintinance but at the same time it's evident that he did not beat the hell out of it either.

[Slow35th]

Good point, I thought those would throw a check engine light though? I know GM's are sensitive with that but Ford must not be.

I was kidding

[iamtheshaner]

The conditions that typically set a 212 don't result in a driveability condition. This is likely related to the fact that your light isn't on all the time but the code remains in memory. First off, you could have a bad distributor. It would explain your shitty pickup signal AND your driveability issues. Another thing to consider is that there are two different TFI modules out there for these engines. OEM colors where different (black and grey) but the aftermarket cheap made in China fucking junk Oreilly pieces can be any color. Cross reference your orignal to this: F1PZ-12A297-A (remote mounted) or E9DF-12A297-AA (bowl mounted). If these #s don't match, you need to go to a FORD dealer and have them get you an OEM replacement. If you really want to blow your mind pop the cover off your Autozone junk and compare it to your orignial. OEM is super clean with perfect solder joints and silicone sealer. The Autozone unit is full of dust and completely exposed and looks like Michael J Fox soldered it up.

Considering your mileage and the issues you'll have with getting the wrong service part your best bet may be to go get a used distributor with all original guts and a used coil. It will be cheap, most likely effective and you don't have to dick with 100 trips to Vatozone.

G/L

p.s. Sweet35th is much better with EECIV stuff so he may want to chime in but sounds to me like you have a shitty PIP signal or the wrong TFI.

[MisterCMK]

Good luck getting a reman dizzy that fits the 94-95s. O'Reilly's gives the reman dizzy for a Fox. The part number is apparently the same for the 94-95. The connector is correct but the TFI mount gets in the way. After going through 2 of the O'Reilly dizzys I said the hell with it and put a Mallory billet distributor in my car and haven't had a problem since then. I contacted A1 Cardone and they tried to tell me that it was the correct part. I also replaced the TFI module during all of this and used the Napa part and from what I have read you either buy a Motorcraft TFI module or a Napa unit. I think my OEM TFI module might have been just fine and all the problems were caused by the PIP sensor in the crappy reman dizzys.

[wiplash]

Correct me if im wrong but wouldn't that code only be caused by lack of tach reference or misfire condition? How common are the distributer's to go out on these vehicles? I used all OEM parts for the complete tune up in efforts to try and eliminate future problems down the road. This had original plug wires on it with 174k and even still has the original clutch so I have a feeling the guy may not have taken care of it's preventive and scheduled maintinance but at the same time it's evident that he did not beat the hell out of it either.

Another problem common with the SN95's is that the hall-effect signal wire running to the PCM is SUPPOSED to be shielded/wrapped in tin foil to ward off interference from the other wiring in the loom. I disassembled the loom on my 94 when I was at my whits end with driveability and idle surging problems and found this shield was pretty tore up and clearly ineffective. I re-wrapped it with tin foil and it made a huge difference in idle quality. I don't think I was throwing codes though, even stored codes.

[BadAssChevy]

The conditions that typically set a 212 don't result in a driveability condition. This is likely related to the fact that your light isn't on all the time but the code remains in memory. First off, you could have a bad distributor. It would explain your shitty pickup signal AND your driveability issues. Another thing to consider is that there are two different TFI modules out there for these engines. OEM colors where different (black and grey) but the aftermarket cheap made in China fucking junk Oreilly pieces can be any color. Cross reference your orignal to this: F1PZ-12A297-A (remote mounted) or E9DF-12A297-AA (bowl mounted). If these #s don't match, you need to go to a FORD dealer and have them get you an OEM replacement. If you really want to blow your mind pop the cover off your Autozone junk and compare it to your orignial. OEM is super clean with perfect solder joints and silicone sealer. The Autozone unit is full of dust and completely exposed and looks like Michael J Fox soldered it up.

Considering your mileage and the issues you'll have with getting the wrong service part your best bet may be to go get a used distributor with all original guts and a used coil. It will be cheap, most likely effective and you don't have to dick with 100 trips to Vatozone.

G/L

p.s. Sweet35th is much better with EECIV stuff so he may want to chime in but sounds to me like you have a shitty PIP signal or the wrong TFI.

The TFI module i got was a motorcraft part from dealer and was black just like the one that installed in my car. It's just wierd how it runs fine that morning and then later that afternoon it just ran like ass. Blows my mind, anyway I have read that autozone and oriley's modules are shit parts so i figured i'd be safer to get one from the dealer.

[BadAssChevy]

Another problem common with the SN95's is that the hall-effect signal wire running to the PCM is SUPPOSED to be shielded/wrapped in tin foil to ward off interference from the other wiring in the loom. I disassembled the loom on my 94 when I was at my whits end with driveability and idle surging problems and found this shield was pretty tore up and clearly ineffective. I re-wrapped it with tin foil and it made a huge difference in idle quality. I don't think I was throwing codes though, even stored codes.

Ill check that tomorrow thank you for the tip