cost of driveway extention

[Spiral]

cemstone ready mix is $103 / cubic yard plus $100 for the the truck to come out. they will pour in the fixtures for you and you have to float and trowel it yourself or pay someone to do it. a 28' x 20' x 3.5" would be around 6 cubic yard, so figure $718 give or take.

[billb]

Yeah it sucks big time, have just moved in and less than two weeks we get this notice. I can not do any cement or blacktop now and you think they will give me a little time damn it!

They also complained that my house numbers were not big enough, they need to be at least 6" tall. Picky Pricks.

I will have to call the city and find out if my taxes will go up with cement over blacktop, and if it does, about how much. I have a .33 acre lot, so we should be fine with the driveway extention, ALOT of places around me have really BIG driveways since you can not park on the city street where I am.

I would love brick, but with all the cost of having to move and items that need to be straightened out to our liking, it is out of the question for now. I also want to remove a big ass tree, but am sure that will cost me a small load too

If they will not screw me witih taxes, I am going to do it myself and have a truck bring in the cement, but was hoping to find it for about 70-75 per cubic yard. Cemstone sounds kinda high.

[billb]

cemstone ready mix is $103 / cubic yard plus $100 for the the truck to come out. they will pour in the fixtures for you and you have to float and trowel it yourself or pay someone to do it. a 28' x 20' x 3.5" would be around 6 cubic yard, so figure $718 give or take.

I have done a few sidewalks, but have never done "floating". What is this? We would level off the execcs with a board, then use a heavy rake and dip it in and out of the cement to eliminate any bubles, then troweled the the top, and then split the concrete for expantion areas (don't know that that is called).

I am a diy guy, and don't want to do it wrong.

thanks guys, I feel a little better today, but still ticked off a little.

[GoldenPlump]

I just don't get it. The government exists to protect our property and liberties. Yes, another purpose would be arbitration, where someone says another person's actions are affecting their property (i.e. someone contaminating ground water by dumping used motor oil and coolant on their property) but simply parking a vehicle somewhere doesn't affect anyone else's property! And wouldn't this be a matter for a neighbor to talk to the person themself if they don't like it? I suppose they would sound like a dousche anyways. "Hey, I don't like you parking your boat there". Yeah, any reasonable person would be like WTF.

I hate it but I like it....I have some trashy neighbors and I don't want to stare at their rusty school bus that is parked in their driveway all year. Thankfully the city has been fining them and I expect the bus will be gone shortly.

So where in Brooklyn Park do you live?

[RayK]

Concrete is way better imo. Get the best so you don't get popouts. I think I had 5500 psi concrete put in. Proper base underneath and get an extra inch or of concrete with rebar. Then a expansion joint every 8 ft or so. Johnson and Son's put mine in and they did a great job. My next door neighbor did it himself and then cut the concrete for joints. It cracked and looked like hell.
After the divorce, his ex had a new driveway put in.

For everyone yapping about rights and property, think about the big investment and big checks that go out the door to pay for it. If you have 100k-500k plus investment and still paying through the nose every month and taxes every 6 months, you want to protect it.

[XJHEAD]

Get the best so you don't get popouts. I think I had 5500 psi concrete put in. .

4,000 psi mix is more than plenty, "popouts are either caused by overfinishing or too much water. The stiffer the mix the stronger the concrete, most concrete guys that are not meeting a spec. put way too much water in it. A higher slump is easier to work with and gives them more time to work with it.

Proper base underneath and get an extra inch or of concrete with rebar. .

He is correct here, I would put down 6" of road gravel down packed with a walk behind tamper

Then a expansion joint every 8 ft or so. My next door neighbor did it himself and then cut the concrete for joints. It cracked and looked like hell. .

I would put more joints in myself. If the neighbor saw-cut his and it cracked it is because he did not go deep enough, not enough control joints or did not prep the sub-grade well enough..

For a rough number on price, I usually figure the price of concrete from a delivery service then multiply by 2 for someone to do it right.... By the way do not mix it yourself..... trust me on that one. I get to do a 30X60 building this next month or two. We have to mix all mud with 3 mixers, footings walls and all flatwork, not looking forward to that.

[95.0mark]

sounds like a nightmare.

[billb]

I hate it but I like it....I have some trashy neighbors and I don't want to stare at their rusty school bus that is parked in their driveway all year. Thankfully the city has been fining them and I expect the bus will be gone shortly.

So where in Brooklyn Park do you live?

Just off of 85th and west river road. Just off of 252 by the mcdonalds.

I will see if I can find the video.

So I should dig up the area,
set up my forms,
put down rock (what kind, is that class V gravel or another rock?),
fill in with sand (how thick of sand),
then put down my re-bar (how much rebar?),
then poor the cement
level it off
dip the rake in and out to try and air out any bubbles
trowel it to smooth it out
edge it to prevent cracking on the outside
and then finaly use an jointer to put in the control joints? (how long to I need to wait to do this where it is firm enough to stay this way?)

thanks guys!

[XJHEAD]

So I should dig up the area,
set up my forms,
put down rock (what kind, is that class V gravel or another rock?),
fill in with sand (how thick of sand),
then put down my re-bar (how much rebar?),
then poor the cement
level it off
dip the rake in and out to try and air out any bubbles
trowel it to smooth it out
edge it to prevent cracking on the outside
and then finaly use an jointer to put in the control joints? (how long to I need to wait to do this where it is firm enough to stay this way?)

thanks guys!

Dig, place classV, pack, form, no sand, re-bar #4 or #5, usually set @2' o/c,pour concrete, vibrate, screed, float it, use edger and divider when ready, you'll know, I would broom finish it, hides a lot of imperfections. Do not broom too early, it is ready when you have to push somewhat hard to leave a mark with a fingure.

[billb]

Dig, place classV, pack, form, no sand, re-bar #4 or #5, usually set @2' o/c,pour concrete, vibrate, screed, float it, use edger and divider when ready, you'll know, I would broom finish it, hides a lot of imperfections. Do not broom too early, it is ready when you have to push somewhat hard to leave a mark with a fingure.

Thanks! I only have two questions since I am not familiar with the terms, what do you mean by vibrate, is that what I would do with the rake? And what does "float it" mean?

Thanks again and again guys, just want this to last and look decent

[XJHEAD]

Thanks! I only have two questions since I am not familiar with the terms, what do you mean by vibrate, is that what I would do with the rake? And what does "float it" mean?

Thanks again and again guys, just want this to last and look decent

float vibrator
A lot of guys use rakes for a rough level, then use a back and forth action to get rid of air pockets, this is done while you are leveling. It is a lot easier to use a vibrator and just drag it through the concrete. A pass about every 1 foot. Too much it will separate the aggregate from the cement.

[Emart]

Thanks! I only have two questions since I am not familiar with the terms, what do you mean by vibrate, is that what I would do with the rake? And what does "float it" mean?

Thanks again and again guys, just want this to last and look decent

You vibrate with some sort of device to remove air bubbles, not with a rake.


But my actual reason for posting: What do you mean by concrete "breathing"? How does that work? Doesn't seem too porous, what would happen if you covered it with asphalt?

[XJHEAD]

What do you mean by concrete "breathing"? How does that work? Doesn't seem too porous, what would happen if you covered it with asphalt?

I cannot answer that one but if you look around the country there are a lot of roads that have a asphalt overlay on top of concrete

air-entrainment Refers to a state where concrete admixtures introduce tiny air bubbles during mixing. The bubbles in air-entrained concrete permit water to expand and contract during freeze/thaw cycles — without damaging the concrete. Contrast to air-entrapment.

air-entrapment Potentially harmful situation when larger and irregular air bubbles accidentally occur in concrete.

[CorinthiansBlackGT]

shouldnt need rebar if you're only pouring 4 inch thick. class V is gravel its just the type of gravel or what ever. It works perfectly fine and you need about a 4 inch base of that.

Make sure to rent a tamper and pound down the class 5. (crushed concrete) Then uhm.... setup forms and use a really long 2x4 as a guide/rake for low/high spots... Duct tape works perfectly fine for a joint....